Taormina must be on the itinerary of any trip to Sicily! While in summer its popularity turns it into a crowded resort, the mild climate in the off-season predisposes for pleasant walks. And the stunning views of Mount Etna volcano on one side and the endless blue of the Ionian Sea on the other have inspired more than one or two famous people over the centuries…
Where is located and how to get there
Situated along the eastern Sicilian coast, Taormina is nestled at just over 200m high at the foot of Monte Tauro hill. The nearest major city is Catania (55 km), and relatively further away is Palermo, some 265 km. And while there is a direct train connection between Taormina and Catania and you can get there in 45 minutes (for about 6 euro), the train ride from the island’s capital takes about 4 hours and includes a connection in Messina. There is also a direct train connection to Syracuse (120 km) – it takes 2 hours and has a ticket price of about 12 euros. You can see timetables, prices and buy a ticket from Trainline.
An important clarification is that the train station is located next to the coast – at the foot of Taormina. If you’re not intimidated by a 30-40 minute climb up a dirt path, you can walk to the top. But the most used method of getting to the centre is by bus (Interbus), starting right from the station and stopping at the terminal next to Piazza San Pancrazio. The journey is short, about 10 minutes, and tickets can be bought in advance or on the spot. Timetables and prices can be found HERE. There are also direct buses from Catania Airport, which are operated by Interbus and Etna transporti.
See car rental options in Sicily
We toured the island with a rental car from our partners Autoeurope and this is the best option for a longer trip in Sicily. Taormina is reached by a winding, steep and narrow road! There are two main paid parking lots at the two entrances to the town – Parcheggio Lumbi and Porta Catania Parking.
Where to stay
We absolutely wanted to stay in Taormina so we could get a feel for its mood in the evenings when the day-tripper buses leave. But since we didn’t fancy a place to stay in the high part, we decided to save ourselves the car ride up and stay at B&B Sottocoperta.
It’s right across from the train station and we parked for free nearby. The common areas are interestingly decorated, everything was very clean and the place became one of the most enjoyable of our stay in Sicily. We had breakfast the next day which was served in the common room overlooking the coast and in warm weather on the large panoramic terrace.
See more places to stay in Taormina
Booking.comWe enter through the Messina gate
We enter the historic centre of Taormina through one of the two well-preserved city gates – Porta Messina. It was built in the early 19th century by the Bourbons and named Porta Ferdinandea in honour of the King (Ferdinand IV). In front of it is a wide triangular square (Piazza San Pancrazio), mainly used for a small car park. At the far end of the square, you can see the Byzantine church of the same name (Chiesa di San Pancrazio) and the remains of a building that was probably once used as a bath.
First steps around Taormina
Barely a few meters in, we reach our first stop – two almost joined small squares (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and Piazza Santa Caterina). On the first one you can find the wonderful La Bottega Del Buongustaio shop, where you can immerse yourself in the colours and aromas of typical Sicilian products. From here also starts via Teatro Greco, leading to the main landmark of Taormina (the Teatro Antico di Taormina) and which we will take in a moment…
The Palazzo Corvaja, built at the end of the 14th century on a Norman fortress and bearing the name of one of the most distinguished and noble families in Taormina – the Corvaja family, casts a shadow over both squares. It is also called the “parliamentary building” because at the beginning of the 15th century the Sicilian parliament met there.
At the highest point of the main street Corso Umberto is the small 17th-century church Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. Admission is free and it’s worth going in, especially for the beautiful marble elements. Right behind it you can find another completely free site, hidden from the eyes of the main tourist flow – the small Roman theater Odeon, dating back to the time of the first Roman emperor Octavian Augustus (21 BC).
The Ancient Greek Theater – Teatro Antico di Taormina
Having visited the ancient Greek theater in Taormina (Teatro Antico di Taormina), Goethe wrote the following in his famous travelogue “Journey to Italy” from 1789: “Never has a theatrical audience had such a performance before them…“. And rest assured… it’s not about the production, but the fabulous view of the Ionian coast and the Etna volcano!
The Greeks built this theater on the edge of a hill in the 3rd century BC and turned it into one of the most impressive testimonies in Sicily to their knowledge and skills! Subsequently, the Romans used it mainly for gladiatorial battles, and its current appearance is due to a significant reconstruction during the time of Trajan (in the 2nd century). With its impressive size, this is the second largest ancient amphitheater in Sicily (after the one in Syracuse).
Besides being built in harmony with nature, its shape guarantees perfect acoustics at every point! The venue is still used today for concerts, events, and an annual film festival. To visit it, you must pay an entrance fee, and for up-to-date information about opening hours and prices, you can visit the website – HERE.
The city gardens – Villa Comunale di Taormina
One of the most interesting places in Taormina is due to Florence Trevelyan, a remarkable English lady who left Albion after an affair with the then prince and future King Edward VII. She settled in Taormina, fell in love with the famous local resident and acting mayor Salvatore Cacciola, and spent the rest of her life in this paradise. Meanwhile, he bought the picturesque island below the city (Isola Bella) and acquired several plots of land on the steep slope at the foot of the ancient theater, where he created his own small oasis for relaxation – Villa Comunale di Taormina.
Today, the gardens are part of the public park and we can walk among extremely rare exotic plants, sit in the shade on a bench and enjoy the amazing panorama of the coast, completely free of charge! You’ll also certainly notice the quaint brick structures that Lady Trevelyan called “Victorian Beehives” and served as a quiet place to drink tea and watch the birds!
The main street – Corso Umberto
Undoubtedly, the main flow of people in Taormina is directed towards the main pedestrian boulevard Corso Umberto! It stretches from the already mentioned Porta Messina, all the way to the opposite Porta Catania – about 1 km. It also passes the iconic clock tower Torre dell’Orologio, built on the base of an ancient defensive wall from the 4th century BC and also known as the middle gate – Porta di mezzo. It is home to important city squares, small churches, old palaces, numerous fashion boutiques, cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, craft workshops and much more.
The side streets
Our favourite… getting lost in the side streets, leaving ourselves to chance and creating our own Taormina memories! Steep stairs with flower pots, streets turned into botanical gardens, and strangely painted facades are just some of the things we came across. To guide you, don’t miss a peek at the Giardino dei fiori profumati staircase, make your way through the palm trees of Via Naumachia and marvel at the murals of Via degli artisti.
More about Taormina
To a large extent, the history of Taormina overlaps that of Sicily. Founded by the Sicels, over the centuries the city fell under the rule of various conquerors – Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Normans, Spaniards and others. Despite its appealing location and its role as an important trading center in the past, the huge heyday came with the island’s tourism boom in the 20th century! Famous writers and actors who visited Taormina contributed to the wave of tourists in the summer turning into an unstoppable tsunami. The beautiful beaches nearby and the breathtaking views also help Taormina to be likened to the most beautiful city in Sicily!
The central square – Piazza IX Aprile
On April 9, 1860, a rumor spread through the streets of the city that Giuseppe Garibaldi had landed in Marsala to annex the Bourbon-ruled territory of the “Kingdom of the Two Sicilies” to the “Kingdom of Italy.” However, this turned out to be completely false information, and the “Hike of the Thousand” (as this expedition was later known) took place a month later – in May of the same year. But the city’s residents want to seal this date in history and so they named their most elegant and impressive square – Piazza IX Aprile.
This open balcony over the Ionian Sea is lined in ethereal checkerboard tiles, adding to its charming identity! Right next to the parapet is the former church Chiesa Sant’Agostino, converted into a municipal library, and in the background is the iconic early 18th-century Baroque church Chiesa di San Giuseppe.
Piazza Duomo
My favorite of the squares in Taormina is Piazza Duomo! Thanks to its stone facade, the 13th-century Cathedral (Duomo di Taormina) looks more like a fortress than the other major churches in Sicily. Inside you will find pink marble columns, baroque altars and numerous nautical elements in the decorations.
Right opposite it is the locals’ favorite meeting place – the 17th-century Baroque fountain (Fontana di Piazza Duomo). At the top, you can notice the curious statue of a female centaur (minotaur), holding in both hands the symbols of power – a scepter and a globe. This figure is also present in the official coat of arms of Taormina, with some more fantastic legends linking it to the origin of the city.
This is the perfect place to slow down your walk for a bit and enjoy an aperitif or coffee in a pleasant atmosphere. The small bar Billy&Billy turned out to be a perfect choice, and in addition we tried typical cheeses and meats.
Taormina by night
As the last rays of the afternoon sun caressed the almost constantly smoking crater of Mount Etna, we returned to the central piazza to enjoy this spectacle from the best seats! There, street musicians added the important missing piece of romance – pleasant background music. Watching the children chasing each other around the square, we didn’t notice when the only sources of light were the street lamps and the entire coast lit up in various colors…
Dinner time
Taormina is an overly touristy place and there are many places to eat that can turn out to be a trap… The prices are also well above average for Sicily. After much hesitation, we gave up on the osteria we had originally planned and headed to the charming garden of a 17th-century villa, where they offer great pizzas – Villa Zuccaro.
A cozy and sophisticated atmosphere, and the menu offers interesting seasonal Sicilian suggestions. The pizzas are the main highlight and they are really great and also at good prices. In recent years, the place has become a gastronomic starting point and four more restaurants with different themes have opened (you can check them out on the website HERE)!
Isola Bella for the final
Taormina is a small and compact city to explore, but at the same time it is sleek and chic! Especially the coast, whose beaches attract thousands of tourists in the summer… Before we left, we wanted to stop by the photogenic little island of Isola Bella. One of the popular viewpoints is on the way up to the city (Belvedere di Via Pirandello), but a good panorama can also be found from the main road around the coast.
The exotic vision of this oasis is entirely due to the already mentioned Florence Trevelyan! Until 1990, it was a private residence, and today it has been converted into a reserve with an extraordinary natural landscape and is open to the general public. A great end to a day visit to Taormina out of season!
