While reading the title Szekesfehervar (Székesfehérvár), you are probably thinking: “How the heck do you pronounce that?” Don’t worry, you are not the only one! Although its name is a challenge for foreigners, this city is a must-see stop for anyone who wants to feel the pulse of Hungarian history. Located just an hour away by train from Budapest, Székesfehérvár is an ideal destination for a day trip to diversify your stay in the capital. The city plays a key role in the medieval history of Hungary because, for centuries, it was the site of the coronation and burial of Hungarian kings. Despite the destruction over the years, today it has managed to preserve its old-world atmosphere and offer visitors a charming historical center hidden behind its hard-to-pronounce name.
Where is located and how to get there
Székesfehérvár is located in the central part of Hungary, in Fejér county, and is the ninth largest city in the country with a population of nearly 100 000 people. It has excellent transport links with Budapest, making it extremely convenient for a day trip. The easiest and preferred method is rail transport. Trains frequently depart from Déli pályaudvar station in Budapest, and the journey takes approximately one hour. The train station in Székesfehérvár is within walking distance (about 15-20 minutes) of the city’s historical center.
See car rental options in Hungary
If you have a car in Hungary, the city is in close proximity to the main road arteries in the central part of the country and is very easily accessible. The distance from Budapest (65 km) is covered in about 45 minutes. Parking is also not much of a challenge, and I recommend you orient yourself towards the bus station area. There is a small parking lot next to it (Parkoló Autóbusz-állomás), which is often full. But we headed across the street, where we found a cheaper and more spacious alternative between the residential blocks – Vadex parkoló (8013). From there, it’s a very short and pleasant walk to the center.
See places to stay in Székesfehérvár
First steps around the city
Our way to the center of Székesfehérvár led us through Várfal Park – a surprisingly well-maintained green space, especially considering its location right next to the bus station. In the heart of the park stands the imposing Bishop’s Fountain (Püspökkút), an impressive monument that currently serves as a silent (non-working) fountain.
Before we could dive into exploring the grand history of this former Hungarian capital, we needed a recharging dose of caffeine! We stopped at Lipóti Bakery, a spot where locals know they can always find aromatic cappuccino and warm, fresh-out-of-the-oven pastries.
While enjoying our treats at the outdoor tables, a glint of sunlight reflecting off the bronze statue across the street kept catching my eye… I couldn’t resist joining the crowd in rubbing the monument for good luck – a statue of a slightly hunched old lady pushing her trolley toward the market square (Kati néni szobor). The figure is so realistic that, viewed from afar, it could easily be mistaken for a real person. As it turns out, “Aunt Kati” wasn’t just a figment of an artist’s imagination; she was inspired by a real woman named Imréné Molnár Boda Katalin. Even at the venerable age of 93, she never stopped selling home-made milk and sour cream to the local townspeople.
Climbing toward St. Stephen’s Cathedral
Refreshed and recharged, we headed to the opposite corner where the steep steps of Lépcső utca are located – the fastest route to the upper part of the city. Watch your step, not just while climbing the stairs, but especially afterwards! I am sure you will be impressed by the detailed manhole covers, stylishly engraved with the city’s coat of arms or significant historical motifs – one of those small urban details that reveal the true character of a place.
In just a few minutes, we reached the main temple in Székesfehérvár – St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Szent István-székesegyház). The Baroque building we see today dates back to the 18th century and was erected over the foundations of the destroyed 13th-century St. Peter’s Church. I had read somewhere that a fragment of King Stephen I’s skull is preserved inside, but we never managed to see such a relic and simply enjoyed the beautiful frescoes instead… Nevertheless, the significance of this temple in Hungarian history is undeniable. An interesting fact is that right here in 1235, for reasons not entirely clear, King Béla IV was crowned, making this church one of the few official coronation sites outside the main basilica of the Kingdom of Hungary.
Right next to it, you will spot the modest Gothic St. Anne’s Chapel (Szent Anna-kápolna). Built in the mid-15th century by wealthy local citizens, it is a true survivor – the only fully preserved medieval building in the city. During the Ottoman occupation, the chapel was converted into a Muslim house of prayer, which paradoxically saved it from the ruin that befell the rest of Székesfehérvár’s architecture from that era.
💡In one of the inner courtyards behind the Cathedral, you’ll find Órajáték (the Clock Museum), where mechanical figures come to life to the sound of music every two hours, starting from 10:00 AM. This is something I discovered while writing this article and, unfortunately, we missed out on…
More about Székesfehérvár – The city of kings
The lands of present-day Székesfehérvár have been inhabited since prehistoric times, but 972 AD is accepted as the official year of its founding. It was then that Grand Prince Géza built his fortified settlement from white stones and gave it the Latin name Alba Regia (“Royal White“). Subsequently, the first Hungarian king (Saint Stephen I) transformed Fehérvár into an urbanized settlement, as well as the spiritual and political center of the kingdom. Thus, its history is literally intertwined with the roots of Hungarian statehood, and its royal status is undeniable! Until the mid-16th century, 34 kings were crowned here, and 15 of the country’s greatest rulers were laid to rest within its walls.
However, its days of glory were interrupted when the city fell under Ottoman control. Almost all medieval buildings and the majestic basilica were destroyed, and Székesfehérvár lost its royal splendor for nearly 150 years. It was only after its liberation by the Habsburgs at the end of the 17th century that its massive revival began. It was then that the prefix “Székes“ was added, linking the city to the official royal throne established here during the Middle Ages. The city literally rose from the ashes, with the ruins of the past becoming the foundations for the new Baroque and Classical palaces we see today.
Városház tér – Imperial splendor and baroque elegance
Here we are in the very center of the city – the main square Városház tér! With its aristocratic elegance, it transports us back to the era of the Habsburg Empire. Surrounded by perfectly maintained pastel-colored facades, it is undeniably the most striking example of the city’s grand 18th-century revival.
Standing proudly in the center of the square is the red marble decorative fountain Országalma, also known as the Royal Orb statue (Country Apple statue). This monument combines the city’s past with a thousand years of Hungarian statehood. The Latin inscription in the center is a fragment from a medieval charter, referencing the privileges that, according to tradition, Saint Stephen granted the city, and which King Stephen III officially legalized through the “Law of Fehérvár” in the early 12th century. Beyond its historical value, this spherical statue fits perfectly into its Baroque surroundings!
The square is surrounded by iconic buildings, most notably the majestic Bishop’s Palace (Püspöki palota). Its facade is one of the most beautiful examples of Neoclassicism in Hungary, and the fact that stones from the ruins of the old basilica were used for its construction adds another layer of continuity. Right next to it is the massive yet elegant City Hall (Városháza), which completes the look of this “imperial” open-air salon, radiating European sophistication with a distinct Austrian feel…
Among the Ruins of the Coronation Basilica (Romkert)
In the immediate vicinity lies the Ruins Garden (Romkert), the most significant site in Medieval Hungary, where the heart of the kingdom once beat – the Basilica dedicated to the Virgin Mary! As the terrain here is uneven and not at all suitable for a stroller and a two-year-old child, I entered alone. I got the impression that the staff at the entrance were somewhat surprised to see a solo Bulgarian tourist, but they welcomed me kindly and with a playful sense of humor.
Until the 19th century, it was believed that not a trace remained of Székesfehérvár’s glorious medieval past… However, during excavations, the earth revealed its secrets – the remains of the majestic coronation basilica, the tomb of Saint Stephen, and dozens of other Hungarian kings. Although at first glance the site may not appear grand or visually stunning (as a large portion of the walls are underground or merely marked out), the feeling inside is one of something exceptionally precious and sacred… It breathes greatness!
For most of the time, I was completely alone among the ruins, which allowed me to feel the silence of the centuries. Naturally, the most moving moment is standing before the sarcophagus of Saint Stephen – the primary relic of the site, serving as a reminder that the foundations of Hungarian statehood were laid precisely here. Looking at the fragments and the sparse remains, it is extremely difficult to imagine what a monumental building the basilica must have been – a place where key national events took place, where the royal throne stood, and where the treasury, the state archives, and the royal insignia (crown, scepter, sword, and mantle) were kept…
A stroll down Fő street – Charm at every turn
After immersing ourselves in the ancient past at the ruins, we returned to the tranquil urban rhythm of modern-day Székesfehérvár by heading down the main pedestrian artery, Fő utca. It is a true feast for the eyes – I found myself taking photos at literally every corner, captivated by the well-maintained buildings and the perfectly integrated greenery throughout the street spaces. Along the way, you will find cafes, galleries, theaters, churches, and museums.
There is one landmark that might remain hidden from view if you aren’t careful… Built into a corner wall is an imposing monument to King Matthias (Mátyás király-emlékmű). Erected to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the legendary ruler’s death, it is an architectural feature that turns the street itself into an open-air museum.
On the neighboring corner, we discovered the most pleasant spot for a break—a charming little square with a small fountain and the statue of Captain Varkocs (Varkocs György várkapitány szobra). He is revered as a hero who died gallantly while defending the city from the Ottomans, and the area around the monument proved quite attractive for the child, running freely to the sound of trickling water.
Continuing our walk, we reached one of the city’s most beautiful living decorations – the Flower Clock (Virágóra). Every year, it is planted with various fresh flowers, and a precise mechanism is embedded in the ground, allowing it to always show the exact time. Behind it there is also a small park where water flows into constructed drainages and becomes a pleasant attraction for the little ones.
The main street leads to the spacious square featuring the “Leaping Fountain” (Szökőkút) in front of the iconic Mercure Hotel. There, you can sit on one of the many benches and simply relax, soaking in the urban atmosphere of Székesfehérvár!
Bory Castle – The dream of a “mad” sculptor
We head toward the outskirts of the city, where we discover one of the most unusual buildings in Hungary – Bory Castle (Bory-vár). This is not a medieval fortress, but the life’s work of sculptor and architect Jenő Bory, who built it over the course of 40 years (between 1923 and 1959) as a symbol of his eternal love for his wife, Ilona. The castle is a true architectural phenomenon – it is one of the largest structures in the world built almost entirely of concrete, in a perfect combination of Romanesque, Gothic, and Scottish styles. Even more amazing is that Mr. Bory was not guided by specific engineering drawings, but relied mainly on his imagination, which he adapted to the specific characteristics of the terrain…
Strolling through the site feels like a journey through a fairy tale – narrow, winding staircases in the round towers lead to high platforms with panoramic views, while the well-maintained gardens are filled with roses and sculptures! The arcaded inner courtyard is home to dozens of statues of Hungarian historical figures, and within the castle’s halls, you can admire paintings and artworks by the Bory family. As the site is a private museum, there is an entrance fee, but every penny is worth it to pay tribute to the patience and talent of a man who turned cold concrete into true art!
For a final
Székesfehérvár turned out to be one of those places that surprises you at every turn! The city manages to gracefully combine the weight of its medieval history with the elegance of Imperial Baroque and the tranquil rhythm of a modern European town. It is a true hidden gem, an ideal stop for a day trip from Budapest, and a place that definitely belongs on your list for your next journey!
