Lithuania is a relatively unknown country for Europeans, which rarely falls on their tourist radar. The most visited city is undoubtedly the capital Vilnius, but I’m sure you’ll be pleasantly surprised if you decide to head to Kaunas! The second largest Lithuanian city was chosen as the European Capital of Culture in 2022 and is extremely pleasant for a walk. Here are some of the most interesting things to see in Kaunas.
Where is located, how to get there and where to stay
Kaunas is located in the central part of Lithuania, in the valley where the two largest Lithuanian rivers, Nemunas and Neris, meet. Around 100 km away, but in different directions, are Russia (Kaliningrad region) to the west, Poland to the south and the capital Vilnius to the east. There are regular buses and trains between the country’s two largest cities, and the journey takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If you are planning to travel this way, I would recommend the railways, and you can find more information on their website – HERE.
Kaunas also has its own airport – small but very neat. The city is the base of the low-cost company Ryanair, and accordingly there are quite a few flights from all over Europe. That’s how we visited it, and the city center can be reached by bus 29 – the stop is to the left of the terminal exit. A ticket is purchased from the driver (1 euro), but be aware that the bus usually waits for all passengers and is almost full! An up-to-date schedule with departure/arrival times for each stop on the route can be found HERE.
Most tourists prefer to stay in the old town, but I recommend you look for an option around the Laisves pedestrian boulevard. That way you will be at a comfortable walking distance from everything more interesting! We booked a relatively cheap apartment that was in a renovated old building on an inner street – Teeny Tiny Lofts in Center. Easy access for self-catering, new furnishings, spacious bathroom, small living room and bedroom on the second level, which is very close to the only unpleasant thing – the ceiling… But in terms of price/quality, the place is worth it.
See more places to stay in Kaunas
Booking.comThe pedestrian street to the old town – Vilniaus Gatve
The oldest street in Kaunas leads pedestrians to the heart of the old town. It owes its name to the fact that in the past it was part of the medieval road to Vilnius. At the very beginning, it is very wide, with tall trees and flower beds, and there you can also find the former presidential palace (Istorinė Prezidentūra). It was the residence of the Lithuanian president in the period 1918-1939, when, due to the occupation of the capital, Kaunas was declared a temporary one.
A pedestrian underpass connects the new and the old town, and that’s where the cheapest and freshest flowers are sold! At еevery moment there was a long line of customers waiting… The next stretch of high street is full of charming restaurants, galleries and shops!
The old town of Kaunas
Along the cobbled street we reach the heart of the old town! Great atmosphere and lots of colorful houses, mostly two storeys high due to a former local requirement. This is where wooden buildings first appeared, then wealthier citizens started building with red bricks, and today it is a unique mix of architectural styles. One of the most impressive facades is that of the Perkūno namas, built at the end of the 15th century and looking like something out of a Harry Potter movie…
The highlight of the walk through the old town is the square in front of the “white swan”! You’ll understand why the town hall is called that, when you look at the slender snow-white building from the 16th century. Some of the inner halls can be visited, as well as the ceramic museum housed there. The space in front is reserved for most of the interesting events happening in the city. When we visited there was a moto fest and the square was packed with people and motors. In the afternoon it emptied out and revealed a great medium sized European square!
Other interesting buildings on it are the late baroque Jesuit church Šv. Pranciškaus Ksavero and the 17th-century church Švč. Trejybės. It is also surrounded by pleasant establishments, which are often filled mostly with tourists.
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul
Kaunas Cathedral (Šv. apaštalų Petro ir Povilo) is the largest Gothic church in Lithuania! Built at the beginning of the 15th century, it is richly decorated inside and houses the graves of prominent church figures. Since 2007, it has been part of the John Paul II Pilgrim’s Way.
Around it are the best shops for souvenirs of “Lithuanian gold”, as amber is known! Available in all varieties. This is probably the best souvenir to take away from Lithuania.
The medieval castle
The main attraction of Kaunas is the remains of the 14th century castle (Kauno pilis)! It is among the first stone castles in Lithuania and the only one with two rows of defensive walls. It was built to protect the inhabitants from the invasions of the Crusaders, but it didn’t succeed in stopping the knights of the Teutonic Order, who captured and destroyed it in 1362. Today it has been restored to the point that it’s an interesting tourist attraction and houses part of the city museum, as well as hosting various cultural events.
Be sure to also see the spectacular monument to the “Soldier of Freedom” or Vytis, which translates to Knight/Horseman. This is a statue of the official coat of arms of Lithuania, which has been around since the beginning of the 15th century, making it one of the oldest in Europe.
The Park at the Confluence of the Rivers
Santaka park (Santakos parkas) is called “the heart of Kaunas”! It’s located just behind the old town, but you have the feeling that you are hundreds of kilometers away from any urban environment… In it you will find huge green areas, children’s playgrounds, a football field, basketball courts, a skate park and volleyball nets, which appear on land during the summer due to the lower river levels, but are submerged in water during the rest of the year.
There is even a pagan sanctuary where people still gather and perform the traditional Baltic aukuras (fire altar). Their movement is called Romuva and is based on the traditions in the mythology of the Lithuanians, before their Christianization.
The alley leads literally to the end of the land, where the two largest Lithuanian rivers (Nemunas and Neris) meet and continue together on their way to the Baltic Sea. This is one of the most picturesque and romantic places in Kaunas. Legend has it that it was here that the grove of the Lithuanian goddess Milda (the patroness of love) was…
The home of Lithuanian basketball
If you couldn’t tell from the multitude of youngsters in baggy green jerseys throwing an orange ball at baskets, you should know that basketball is the national sport of Lithuania! It’s from the locals’ unconditional love for the game that this multi-functional facility was born, housing unique expositions of the history of Lithuanian basketball and its development – the home of Lithuanian basketball (Lietuvos Krepšinio Namai) You can visit the museum for an entrance fee or book a guided tour, which takes place every Saturday at 12:00.
The hidden churches
There are two wonderful churches that remain hidden from most tourists… One of the oldest Gothic churches, built in the second half of the 15th century, is St. Gertrude (Šv. Gertrūdos bažinchia), nestled behind the residential buildings around the main pedestrian streets. And almost to the river is the oldest church in Kaunas – Dormition, also known as Vytautas the Great (Vytauto Didžiojo bažinchia). Miraculously saved from a battle with the Tatars near the river Vorskla, the Lithuanian knyaz wanted to show his gratitude to the Virgin Mary, and so in 1400 the temple was built.
The bridge and the view from Aleksotas hill
Walking around the river is one of the most pleasant things to do on sunny days in Kaunas! And as you pass around the amphitheater built on the old port, you can’t miss crossing the waters of Nemunas on the bridge, again bearing the name of the famous Lithuanian ruler – Vytautas the Great (Vytauto Didžiojo tiltas). It was blown up twice during World War II and was rebuilt in 1948. The most interesting thing about him is that after the end of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth (the union state between the Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, which existed in the period 1569-1795), the central part of the city remained within the boundaries of the Russian Empire, and Aleksotas Hill was given to Prussia. Due to the use of different calendars by the two countries, it took a full 13 days (as much as their difference) to cross the bridge!
And the Aleksotas hill offers the best view of the old town of Kaunas! The observation deck can be reached by a short climb up the steep stairs or by using the funicular from 1934. Despite the short journey, the experience is worth it, and the ticket costs only 1 euro. From above you can enjoy the great scenery – the green trees move slightly to the side to bring the blue river waters to the fore, contrasting with the red city roofs…
Also take a look at the colorful house at the foot of the hill – HERE. An extremely strange and interesting piece of art!
The street drawings
When it comes to art performances, the street art in Kaunas can impress all the guests of the city! These works have merged with the urban environment to such an extent that they have become symbols of the city and are even present on numerous souvenirs, cards and other items. You may be left to chance and be surprised at what places you’ll see artistic drawings, but I suggest you note down a few must-sees in advance.
Like the wise old man occupying the huge space of 440 square meters from the wall of the former shoe factory (HERE). The Reclining Pink Elephant (HERE) and the Modern Ladies Playing a Game of Chess (HERE) complete the list of must-see murals.
The gallery in the secret courtyard
Another interesting art space is the courtyard gallery (Kiemo galerija). This wonderful “gallery” was created by Vytenis Jakas and to a large extent the reason for its emergence is the alienation of people and the lack of communication. The author starts talking to his neighbors, extracting from them interesting stories and collecting archival photos to create works of art in the inter-block space. It’s images of Jewish residents who inhabited the buildings in the past that are part of the first exhibited works.
The effect is visible and the residents are coming together! And the project is growing at breakneck speed and various artists are invited to add something of themselves so that today it can become a unique place. The entrance is completely free, but remember that there are still people living there and their peace shouldn’t be disturbed!
The Devil’s Museum
One of the most visited places in the city is the one-of-a-kind Devil’s Museum (Velnių muziejus). Lithuanian artist Antanas Žmuidzinavičius began collecting this unique collection of works of art depicting the devil in some form. It contains over 3000 items from around 70 countries! It’s very interesting to see how Satan is depicted in different cultures, especially those of Asia and South America, and to look through a huge magnifying glass at the most miniature figure. Don’t miss the ones from Bulgaria, of course!
The entrance fee is 8 euro and you can safely pay it on the spot, no advance purchase is necessary. The museum is complemented by a reconstruction of the rooms in the artist’s house, his workshop, paintings and other items.
The wooden crosses and Unity Square
There is a place in Kaunas where you can experience the Lithuanian tradition of making wooden crosses! This folk art is included in the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. You can find some great examples of traditional crosses in the garden opposite the Military Museum (Vytauto Didžiojo Karo Muziejus), just behind the Monument to the Unknown Warrior (Amžinoji ugnis), a symbol of independent Lithuania.
We missed the museum, but the gardens around it and the recently built square next door are an ideal place for a walk. Unity Square (Vienybės aikštė) is a newly built space, combined with interesting architectural solutions and impressive design, skate areas, fountains and flower beds. It has quickly become a favorite place for locals to relax, perhaps also because of the pleasant establishments around it.
The Star Sower and the rest of the statues
In addition to the already mentioned street art, the city is full of small and large statues! Some of them you may find in completely unexpected places… Look around everywhere! But there is still one you shouldn’t miss… at the day and night. This is the “star sower” (Žvaigždžių sėjikas)! An illegal element added to the wall behind the statue of a man sowing seeds becomes a favorite of all the locals. Although originally removed, the stars were restored by the locals so that today they can give a completely different meaning to the statue during the dark hours of the day…
The funicular and the view from the Church of the Resurrection of Christ
Kaunas is home to two funiculars, and the one to Žaliakalnis Hill is the oldest in Lithuania (1931) and among the oldest still operating vehicles of its type in Europe. Unfortunately it’s closed on weekends (strange decision) and we didn’t get to go up…
This necessitated a somewhat circuitous route to get up the hill, with the Aušros Stairs (HERE) being the most direct route possible. And there is the impressive modernist Church of the Resurrection of Christ (Kristaus prisikeliö bazilika) – the largest basilica in the Baltic countries! Although the construction was stopped, the building was confiscated and turned into a factory, the people of Kaunas still got their religious home… The interior is clean and simple, but at the foot of the 70-meter tower there is a huge panoramic terrace that reveals another great view of the city! There is a fee that varies depending on whether you choose to take the stairs (3 euro) or the lift (5 euro).
Modernism in Kaunas
The period of Kaunas as the capital is perhaps the most important for the infrastructural and architectural development of the city. In a short time, more than 10,000 buildings were built, influenced by the modernist architecture popular at that time in Europe – museums, public and office buildings, hotels, apartment blocks, factories, etc. Most of them are well preserved to this day and make an impression when walking around the city…
The pedestrian boulevard in the new town – Laisvės alėja
It’s impossible to complete a trip to Kaunas without crossing at least a few times the main pedestrian artery of the city – Laisvės alėja. Avenue of Freedom, the boulevard was named after Lithuania gained its independence. We loved starting our day around it with aromatic coffee and ending it here again, with a cocktail or beer in hand… Along its entire length of about 2 km, numerous shops, the best bars, night clubs and some great restaurants are gathered. This is where you can feel how full of life Kaunas is!
Apart from cool shade in summer, the large trees in its middle add a charming touch to the surrounding cityscape. Its eastern end ends with a spacious square around the church of St. Archangel Michael (Šv. Arkangelo Mykolo baščina). It was built by the Russian Tsar Alexander III at the end of the 19th century in a beautiful neo-Byzantine style.
The green island
Turning from the city fountain to the river, a pedestrian bridge takes us to a real green oasis – the park of the island of Nemunas (Nemuno sala). To admit, I was terribly surprised by the park infrastructure built on it and the many places for walking, recreation, sports or picnics. There is the home of the most famous basketball team in Lithuania – Žalgiris (Žalgirio arena). With such infrastructure and environment around the arena, going to a basketball game in the city becomes a family holiday and an extremely enjoyable activity! We understand why this game is like a religion here… And the hall itself is multifunctional and is the largest among all in the Baltic countries.
Brunch and traditional food
Another big surprise of mine was the many nice options for breakfast and good coffee in Kaunas! We combined walking around the main sights with a slow start to the day, and I dare say that taking advantage of any brunch offer is among the best things to do in the city. Of course, a visit to a traditional Lithuanian restaurant shouldn’t be missed! Detailed information about which places we visited and what we ate can be found in Places to eat in Kaunas.
Night walks
In the evening, the streets of the city are lively until late, young people fill the bars, laughter and music can be heard… Kaunas is an extremely lively city, with a very good night life. There are enough establishments in the old town, but the locals are mostly in the new part. We took long walks at night, and then it was best to sit at one of the bars and take in the fun around you!
For a final
Kaunas is a perfect city escape, with two days being just enough to explore the city. You can of course rent a car from the airport and see some sights nearby, such as the ninth fort (Kauno IX forto muziejus), the Pažaislio vienuolynas monastery, the Rumšiškės ethnographic village, the Hill of Crosses (Kryžių kalnas) or the capital Vilnius.
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