The perfect combination of Alsatian architecture, intertwining the best of France and Germany, the canals of the Lauch River crossing its central part, and the winding cobblestone streets ending in medieval squares, make Colmar one of the most beautiful French cities! And at Christmas it’s like something out of a fairy tale and is definitely the best place in Alsace to feel the magic of the holiday – as its motto goes… La Magie de Noël!
Where is located and how to get there
After the Alsatian capital Strasbourg (73 km), Colmar is the second most important city in the region. It’s popular enough, even more than necessary, to be easily accessible by various public transportation from most nearby major cities. Perhaps the easiest and fastest way would be to travel by train, as there is a direct connection even to Paris! There are three airports nearby that you can use – Strasbourg (66 km), Basel/Mülhaus/Freiburg (58 km) and Baden-Baden (126 km).
See car rental options in Alsace
For the most convenient and fastest way to explore Alsace, I recommend renting a car! We picked up ours from Baden-Baden airport through our partners from Autoeurope. In Colmar, there are several large paid parking lots around the city center, but we managed to park in a completely free one, twice – Parking Manufacture. Along the same street there is another small space where you can leave your car for free – Papeterie. Of course, it’s a good idea to prepare yourself with a paid option if there is no free space – a good option nearby is Lacarre.
When to visit and where to stay
I’m sure Colmar is impressive in any season, but the cold, foggy weather suits its medieval streets so well that it seems perfect for strolling around in your thickest winter clothes and a knitted scarf wrapped around your neck. That’s right… Colmar at Christmas is magical! There you can find a huge variety of boutique hotels and apartments for rent. But the prices are probably the highest in the entire region, so I would recommend staying somewhere less popular, like Selestat.
Regardless of whether you choose to stay overnight here, Colmar is a must-see both during the day and at night! And in addition, it is best to visit it in early December and on a weekday, when the crowds of tourists are tolerable.
See places to stay in Colmar
Booking.comMore about Colmar
The history of Colmar isn’t much different from that of the entire Alsace region – it’s often transferred between France and Germany. For a short time, between 1632 and 1634 (during the Thirty Years’ War), it even fell under Swedish rule. Thanks to merchants, farmers and, above all, winemakers, Colmar reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries! It’s from this period that most of the impressive buildings in the streets of the old town date back…
Some interesting houses and the Statue of Liberty
A striking example from that time is the bourgeois residence – Maison Pfister. The house is named after the Pfister family, who restored it in the mid-19th century. It was built in 1537 for a prominent hatter – Ludwig Scherer. Its architecture is a mix of medieval and Renaissance! It impresses with its octagonal tower and wooden facade, lavishly decorated with various paintings. Other interesting buildings are the “House of Heads” (The Maison des Têtes), the former customs house (Koïfhus) and perhaps the oldest house in the city – Maison Adolph.
You will notice all sorts of items with the Statue of Liberty in all the souvenir shops, and if you enter the city by car on the D83, at the first roundabout you will see a miniature copy of it! The reason for this is Frederic Auguste Bartholdi – its creator, who was born in Colmar. You can find out more about his life and work at the Musée Bartholdi.
St. Martin’s Church
In the heart of the city you will find the impressive Church of St. Martin (Collégiale Saint-Martin de Colmar)! It’s known as the “Cathedral”, but in fact Colmar was never the seat of a bishop. However, it served such a function for a short period, during the French Revolution. The Gothic building was built on the foundations of a Romanesque-style church in the 13th century.
A curious nuance is that the planned second north tower was never built. Thus, the church is left with only one bell tower, which, unlike the nearby large cathedrals (in Strasbourg, Tann and Freiburg), doesn’t end with a spire… The original one was destroyed in a large-scale fire in 1572, which also caused extensive damage to the roof. Then a 71-meter temporary crown was built, which remains to this day.
Little Venice
You’ve surely seen the striking colorful row of half-timbered buildings overhanging a river channel… This is Little Venice (La petite Venice), and the iconic view is from the bridge Pont Rue des Tanneurs! The former fishermen’s quay (Quai de la Poissonnerie) is today the busiest tourist spot in Alsace! Lean on the railing for a moment and try to remember every little detail of one of the most beautiful places in all of France…
In the past, in addition to supplying water to the city, the Lauch River also served as a means of transporting goods. Thus, mainly representatives of various trade guilds settled around her. I’m not entirely convinced of its veracity, but history has it that different activities led to a certain house color – blue for fishmongers, white for bakers, yellow for cheesemakers, red for butchers, green for grocers, and so on.
Walking around the pastel buildings, whose colors were certainly not so bright in the past, at one point the riverside promenade will turn into a narrow street (Rue de la Poissonnerie), which takes us to the old fruit and vegetable market (Krutenau). In the immediate vicinity is the other most picturesque view, that of the Pont de la Rue Turenne bridge, also known as the Pont de l’Abreuvoir.
We came to the area in the evening, when most of the tourists had dispersed. An ethereal winter fog had descended over the canal waters, slowly swallowing up every source of light… In one of the flat-bottomed boats, girded with lights, sat small children from the local choir, who filled with Christmas songs the canal…
The covered market
On the opposite bank is the covered city market – Marché Couvert Colmar. In our case, it was an ideal opportunity to warm up, because winter evenings can be very cold… But it would also be a perfect option to discover quality and authentic Alsatian products. In warm weather there is an outdoor terrace where you can have a meal or a glass of wine. We were satisfied only with that inside we met not just anyone, but Santa Claus!
Wandering the streets of Colmar
Wandering the streets of Colmar during the Christmas period provides a perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in the magical holiday atmosphere! The city’s architecture is stunning, and the Christmas decorations and markets are designed so that visitors can fully enjoy the historic center. It, in turn, isn’t very large and is relatively easy to navigate, and every cobblestone street will amaze you!
Around Place de la Cathédrale you can find some of the oldest houses in the city, and the pedestrian streets Rue des Marchands and Grand Rue have gathered the most beautiful examples of Alsatian architecture. Right at their intersection, don’t miss the opportunity to climb the stone steps of the old customs house to enjoy another iconic view in Colmar – the half-timbered buildings “Au Fer Rouge“, “Chez Hansi” and “Au Vieux Pignon“.
In the center of the Place de l’Ancienne Douane is the famous fountain (Fontaine Schwendi), whose statue was created by Bartholdi. In the Tanners’ Quarter (Quartier des Tanneurs), the masters who developed this craft are long gone, but it is worth taking a look at the buildings restored in the 1970s, whose high wooden ceilings were used for drying hides.
If you want to discover sophisticated French boutiques, Rue des Clefs has become a shopping street, housing some of the most interesting brands. And my two favorite views of the local buildings are from Place Jeanne d’Arc towards Rue du Chasseur (HERE) and from the corner of Rue de l’Église with Grand Rue towards Place de l’Ancienne Douane (HERE)!
Christmas markets and where to find them
In many places you will find the statement that Colmar’s Christmas markets are among the best in Europe… And that is really true! The city authorities strictly monitor that the items offered for sale meet strict requirements and correspond to local traditions and arts. This is also the reason why you can find unique items here, made by regional craft workshops. And also unique Alsatian delicacies, perfectly packaged to take home!
The markets are scattered across several locations around the city, designed to respect Colmar’s rich architectural heritage, and can easily be explored in one visit.
➡ Place des Dominicains – It’s located on a small square around the colorful stained glass windows of the Dominican Church and the trees decorated with glowing garlands. It was the first one we visited in Colmar and we couldn’t resist the aroma of mulled wine (vin chaud) wafting everywhere.
➡ Place Jeanne d’Arc – This market recreates the atmosphere of a typical Alsatian village and offers the best food products to buy as a gift from Colmar – cheeses, pates, cured meats, jams, foie gras, wines, liqueurs, gingerbread and many other delicacies.
➡ Place de l’Ancienne Douane – Around the fountain in the heart of the old town are over 50 huts where you can find all kinds of interesting items. They almost merge with the entrance to the old customs house, and inside are the stalls of local craftsmen – glassmakers, jewelers, potters, hatters and many others.
➡ Place des Six Montagnes Noires – Located near Little Venice, this bazaar has the most children’s attractions! Here, the youngest visitors can also send a letter to Santa Claus.
➡ Rue de la Montagne Verte / Place de la Cathédrale – If you are a fan of eating on foot, this is your place. When we visited Colmar, these houses were around the „Cathedral“, but due to renovations to the square, they are now in a new location. They offer only culinary delights with Alsatian specialties!
The night lights
Besides the glow of the exquisite Christmas decorations, don’t miss a glimpse of the intelligent computer system of over 1,000 colored lights, which is used to reveal and enhance Colmar’s historical heritage! They turn on around 5:00 PM and stay on until around 10:00 PM during the Christmas period.
Dinner in a typical Alsatian restaurant
For dinner in Colmar, I recommend you head to a typical Alsatian restaurant offering authentic specialties at completely affordable prices – Brasserie des Tanneurs! If you don’t make a reservation in advance, you may have to wait or not be able to get in at all – this applies to almost all the better restaurants during the Christmas markets period. Inside we were greeted by wooden decorations, a cozy homely atmosphere, and a huge dose of Alsatian hospitality!
We ordered two of the most famous local dishes – tarte flambé (I told you about it in the article about Riquewihr) and choucroute. This famous local dish is made from fermented cabbage, with several types of meat added (five in our case) and boiled potatoes as a side dish. It’s an absolute must-try when visiting the area, and here it was in a huge portion and very tasty!
For a final
Colmar at Christmas is truly magical, a dream come true! The undisputed culmination of a wonderful tour of Alsace. And to follow the current dates of the markets, you can visit the special Christmas website – HERE. For everything else related to the city, the tourist site (HERE) is extremely detailed and informative!
