Pelion is magic scattered across beaches, small mountain villages, the resort feel along the coast, breathtaking views, and dynamic driving through its to say the least uneven terrain… But one place gathers within itself all the mountain grandiosity of the peninsula, and that is Makrinitsa! Many pin the label “the most beautiful village in Greece” on it, which I cannot fully confirm, as we have seen several other charming villages with this nickname, but it certainly rightfully bears its other moniker – “The Balcony of Pelion”! Right with the very first steps, an incredible panorama of Volos and the Pagasetic Gulf reveals itself, making you literally feel like you are hanging right above them!
Where is it located and how to get there
The houses of Makrinitsa are perched along the steep green slopes of western Pelion, only about 15 km north of Volos. This proximity to the big city turns it into one of the most popular year-round tourist destinations in the region. The road up is nice and wide enough, but it offers a serious mountain climb with numerous sharp turns that quickly elevate you to a high altitude.
Our plan for Pelion was structured in such a way that, in the end, we left this visit for the last day, as we were leaving. That is how we found ourselves in the village early in the morning, around 8:00 AM. Even at that time, however, the large parking lot by the entrance was already packed… We had to leave the car in one of the few remaining free spots along the main road itself. Keep in mind that parking here is a serious challenge, and if you plan a visit later in the day, you will need to arm yourself with a lot of patience…
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With a great variety of hotels and restaurants, in the evening Makrinitsa is pleasantly lively until late, and this makes it a preferred place to stay. It is not the most convenient location for exploring the entire peninsula, but because of the authentic atmosphere, it would be nice to include an overnight stay here.
See places to stay in Makrinitsa
Toward the Central Square
We set off along the narrow cobblestones when Makrinitsa was still waking up, and silence mostly reigned over it. On the streets, we met only a few elderly locals who warmly greeted us with a quiet but sincere smile, breaking the stillness with just a “kalimera“. We also made a friend, whom you will see in one of the photos – Roshko, that’s what I named the white-and-brown dog that confidently accompanied us the entire time!
The central square, Plateia Eirinis or “Square of Peace“, is unexpectedly spacious and grand for a village perched on such a slope… It was right here that the Greek politician Eleftherios Venizelos coined the phrase “The Balcony of Pelion“, which today is used for the entire village. Although it was early morning, the chairs and tables were neatly arranged, waiting for the staff to arrive and open for the first visitors. It is very pleasant to experience a place like this early in the morning, before the tourist bustle changes its energy…
Dominating the center are several centuries-old plane trees, whose thick branches cast a soft, cool shade over the entire space. Their leaves, acting as a natural filter for the first rays of the sun, still let through beams of light dancing lonely across the empty square… The murmur of the running water from the “Immortal Fountain” sounded clear and distinct, and legends about it say that by drinking from its pure mountain water, you gain longevity. In the immediate vicinity is also the local Church of Saint John the Baptist (Agios Ioannis Prodromos) from 1910, richly decorated with exquisite frescoes by local artists.
Wandering through Makrinitsa
From the square, the paths led us uphill, then downhill, and then uphill again, drawing us into a true labyrinth of cobblestones… Traditional Pelion architecture turns Makrinitsa into an open-air museum, with massive stone houses and grand mansions (archontiko). Climbing between them can be slightly exhausting at times, but every step is worth it because it reveals new panoramas of the gulf and Volos spreading out around it.
During one of the climbs, we found ourselves near the stone clock tower rising above the gray stone roofs. Right next to it is the Church Koimisi Theotokou, where a Sunday morning liturgy was taking place. It was built from the remains of the 13th-century Byzantine monastery of the Holy Mother of God Makrinitissa (Moni Panagia tis Makrinitsas), around which the settlement itself actually originated.
Makrinitsa can also offer something for hiking enthusiasts – numerous well-marked eco-trails pass through the area, which were once the only roads connecting the surrounding villages through the dense forests.
Wandering through the crooked crags, the sense of authenticity engulfs you, heightened by the small shops whose storefronts overflow with colors and aromas. Quite a few of them hadn’t opened yet, but we peeked curiously into their windows… Everywhere, emblematic local products are on offer – from traditional sweets made of miniature apples (Firiki Piliou), to honey with walnuts and mountain tea gathered along the slopes of Pelion, to handmade souvenirs and aromatic herbs. Makrinitsa woke up gently, and we cast a final glance at our faithful companion Roshko, who, as if with undisguised sadness, saw us off almost to the car and, with drooping ears, waited for his new friends…
