Pecs is the fifth largest city in Hungary and has fascinating architecture, ancient history and enough sights to spend a pleasant day there! It’s also home to the first and largest university in the country, founded back in the Middle Ages (1367). Today, it is attended by over 30 thousand students, making the city extremely lively and dynamic.
Where is located and how to get there
Pecs is located in the southern part of Hungary, at the foot of the Mecsek Mountains. Only about 50 km away, there are several border crossings with Croatia, and the newly constructed highway between the two countries is in close proximity. The capital Budapest is about 220 km away and there is a train journey between the two cities, which takes about 3 hours. You can find specific schedules and prices on the Hungarian Railways website (HERE).
See car rental options in Hungary
There is no railway connection with other nearby cities and the most convenient option for exploring the area remains a car. We traveled from Bulgaria to Novi Sad (Serbia), from where we continued to Hungary. You can enter Croatia first (via the Bačka Palanka – Ilok border or the bridge at Erdut) and use the better road connection to Pecs. We made the mistake of traveling to the small point of Bezdan – Batina. There, the Croatian border guards, to whom I frankly replied that we were traveling to Pecs, decided not to let a Bulgarian family (European Union citizens) with a two-year-old child through under the pretext that the checkpoint was only for Croats…
Having finally arrived in Pécs, the most convenient option for leaving the car is the paid parking lot near the center – Centrum parkoló. It is easy to service (with payment machines), but it can be busier during peak hours.
See places to stay in Pecs
Kossuth Square and the street opposite
Our first steps in Pecs start from the hidden trade street Citrom! Winding around commercial buildings, it leads to a small square in front of the impressive facade of the Post Office Palace (Pécs Főposta). I’m sure your eyes will be drawn to the colorful roof… The embossed coat of arms and the tiles are made in the local Zsolnay porcelain factory.
We couldn’t resist the temptation of the wooden shack at the beginning of the street (Erdélyi Kürtőskalács), from where the aroma of freshly baked Trdelník wafted. We quickly grabbed some of the traditional pastry, filled with various toppings, and headed to the nearby square. It tasted far from our favorites in Prague, but it was okay…
The spacious Kossuth Square (Kossuth tér) is enclosed between a district administration building on one side and a department store on the other. In its center stands a monument to Lajos Kossuth (whose name it bears) – one of the most prominent Hungarian politicians of the 19th century. At its eastern end is the Synagogue – one of the three still operating in Hungary! It was built in 1869, but was thoroughly renovated after serious damage during World War II. From the outside, the clock and the inscription in Hebrew that reads: “House of Prayer for All People” make an impression. There is an entrance fee to enter, but it was closed.
To the central Széchenyi Square
We take the main pedestrian thoroughfare, where interesting art solutions protect pedestrians from direct sunlight and manage to bring a slight coolness during the hottest hours of the day. Just before reaching the central square, we pass by the Church of St. Sebastian and the emblematic city fountain Zsolnay – made in the Art Nouveau style by the aforementioned local factory of the same name.
Here is the most prominent urban space in Pecs – Széchenyi Square (Széchenyi tér)! The spacious square is a perfect option to enjoy the wonderful architecture in the Hungarian city, where neo-baroque, art nouveau, eclecticism and what not are intertwined. The former savings hall (Megyeháza) and the town hall (Pécs Városháza) are the dominant buildings around it!
In its center stand two statues – of the Holy Trinity and János Hunyadi. The area around them was completely renovated when Pecs was elected European Capital of Culture (in 2010) and today you can see fountains, benches and beautiful green decorations. Definitely the most pleasant place to soak up the atmosphere of the city!
The Mosque of Pasha Kasim
It’s time to mention one of the main landmarks in Pecs – the Mosque of Pasha Kassim (Gázi Kászim Dzsámi). It occupies a key position at the highest part of the square, and its oval dome is visible from afar. It is considered one of the most iconic examples of Ottoman architecture in all of Hungary! In fact, the Ottomans used the remains of the 13th-century Gothic church of St. Bartholomew to build their temple, facing Mecca. To further complicate the overall situation surrounding the former mosque, in the 18th century it was converted into a Catholic church – “Holy Virgin Mary” (Gyertyaszentelő Boldogasszony).
Today it is mainly used as a museum, preserving an incredible mix of religions! Painted Islamic motifs are clearly visible around the exquisitely decorated mihrab. You can also go down to the underground crypt where famous locals are buried. More information about opening hours and entrance fees is available on the website ТУК. A combination ticket is available, including several sites – for example, the mosque and the Cathedral.
The wall with the padlocks
To reach several more popular landmarks, we need to take a slight detour along Janus Pannonius Street, where there is no way to miss the huge wall of padlocks of couples in love (Lakatfal)! Like many European cities, you can lock your love here. When and how this tradition originated in this particular place, I have no idea…
The Early Christian Necropolis
Perhaps the most significant historical site in Pecs is the 4th-century early Christian tomb complex Cella Septichora, which was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000. The Roman settlement of Sopianae was founded on the lands of today’s Hungarian city in the 2nd century, and flourished into an important Christian center. The main part of the necropolis is entered through the visitor center, where access is provided to the well-maintained underground spaces with impressive decorations and murals. From the outside, you can see the above-ground part of the mausoleum, where the remains of 14 skeletons were found.
The Cathedral of Pecs
On the nearby square stands the magnificent Cathedral of Pecs – St. Peter and Paul (Pécsi Bazilika Szent Péter és Szent Pál)! The original Romanesque-style basilica was built in the 11th century on the remains of an early Christian temple. After numerous damages and expansions, its current appearance dates back to the late 19th century. An impressive structure about 70 m long, 22 m wide and four towers up to 60 m high!
It’s even more delightful inside – richly decorated with many colorful elements! A central place is reserved for the majestic main altar, and the organ is a true masterpiece with over 6 000 pipes. Franz Liszt himself played it! It is also worth going down to the crypt, where the mortal remains of influential local clergy rest under the picturesque arches.
What else can be seen
You can continue your tour of Pecs to the preserved part of the medieval fortifications and the Barbakán tower, or to some of the many local museums. The city is rich in art and you can find a porcelain museum, a toy museum, a mining museum, a museum of local history and traditions, a bunch of art galleries and much more! Most are located around Káptalan Street – the museum district of Pecs.
Around the central square
We return to the central square and the surrounding streets… The feeling of just hanging out in them is great! We walked around the entire Király Street, passing by the fantastic building of the National Theater (Pécsi Nemzeti Színház). It’s also a perfect choice to experience the local coffee culture. We found cafes that offered over 50 varieties of caffeinated drinks!
Finally, we decided to try LYR Speciality Coffee and Food – a small establishment offering perfect drinks and lots of interesting things to eat. It is located on the charming, colorful Jókai Square, seemingly hidden from the main stream of visitors to the city… There is a small fountain in its center, and in the past a tram ran through it, with about 10 meters of the line preserved at one end.
For a final
Pecs has ancient roots and a multicultural heritage that truly fascinates us! This is the richest city in terms of Ottoman architecture in Hungary, which in the past played the role of the “gateway to the Balkans”.With its captivating buildings, lively atmosphere, and many opportunities for a pleasant stroll, it has a laid-back charm and is worth spending at least a few hours there.
