Even when I was planning our Transylvania trip, I was sure that the highlight would be Sibiu! Friendly city squares with colorful neat houses and a fascinating fairy-tale atmosphere… In 2004, the historic center of the largest medieval Saxon city became part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, and in 2007, Sibiu was the European Capital of Culture. These two events are transforming the city and giving it an unprecedented tourist boost!
More about Sibiu
In 1190, German Saxons from Transylvania settled around a depopulated Roman settlement and founded their own – Hermannstadt. It managed to establish itself as an important trading center for Hungary, Poland and Wallachia and became a thriving medieval city, protected from raids mainly by Tatars and Ottomans, as well as from the wrath of Wallachian rulers such as Vlad III the Impaler. With the collapse of Austria-Hungary after First World War, Transylvania and Sibiu became part of Greater Romania. After the Second World War, hard days came for the local population because thousands of Saxons were forcibly deported. After the 1950s, mass exodus of Germans followed, with only about 2,000 people remaining in the city, and among them was the future physics teacher and president of Romania from 2014 – Klaus Iohannis.
Where is located, how to get there and where to stay
Sibiu is located in central Romania, at the foot of the Fagaras Mountains and along the banks of the Cibin River. Around 300 km to the north-west is the capital Bucharest, and the journey between the two cities can be made on the impressive Transfagarasan mountain road, which crosses the mountain and offers incredible views! It was through him that we arrived also, traveling around Romania by car. There is also a rail and air connection with the Romanian capital. The city airport is well connected to the city center and several bus lines can take you there in around 30 minutes.
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We stayed in Sibiu for two nights, booking a cozy room in the lower town, on the border with the old part – Old town cataleya. Paid all-day parking is available in the area and we never had a problem finding a free space nearby. The building has a large quiet courtyard, and the room was very spacious, with a huge bathroom and enough space to store the baby carriage without having to constantly jump over luggage. The owners are very nice, we received a great welcome and some useful tips.
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Booking.comThe Large Square
Since the 15th century, everything interesting in Sibiu has been happening around the main square – the Large Square (Piața Mare). You can’t miss the surprisingly large space for a medieval square, surrounded by the city’s most iconic buildings. Like the beautiful 18th century Roman Catholic church built in exquisite Baroque – Biserica Romano-Catolică Sfânta Treime. Also the former residence of Baron Samuel von Brukenthal (Muzeul Național Brukenthal), which became a museum in 1817, making it the first museum in Romania! At the beginning of the 20th century, the dominant building of the town hall (Primăria Municipiului Sibiu) appeared, whose initial role was to serve as a bank. It was built in an eclectic style, with Art Nouveau elements.
We loved the vibe here, with lots of children laughing and shouting around the fountain, groups of tourists taking pictures at every corner and elderly locals, occupying most of the benches. We spent part of our evening walks here, we also passed early in the morning when the city was still waking up, even during the hottest hours, for a slight coolness from the water jets…
Council Tower
It would be hard not to notice the tall 13th-century tower at its northeastern end, the Council Tower (Turnul Sfatului). It was built as part of the inner fortress walls, and in the past served as a granary, a fire tower, a prison and a botanical museum. Today it offers one of the best panoramic views over Sibiu. It’s worth paying the nominal fee to climb to the top and look down on the nearby squares and red roofs.
The small square
It’s a tunnel at the foot of the tower that connects the large and small square (Piața Mică). It’s surrounded by many picturesque buildings and, perhaps because it was the first place we visited, it became our favorite part of Sibiu! It was established around the 15th century and houses some of the best local restaurants and still preserved artisan workshops. In its center there are interesting wooden stands offering local products and souvenirs. In the evening, the mood is even more pleasant, and to immerse yourself in its atmosphere, you can join the crowds gathered around the street musicians, or sit in one of the charming restaurants with a cold beer in hand (Kulinarium is a good solution – you can read more about it in “Places to eat in Sibiu“).
The Bridge of Lies
Among the most emblematic places in Sibiu is Romania’s first iron bridge (since 1859), also known as the Bridge of Lies (Podul Minciunilor). One of the main legends about the origin of his name is related to local merchants discussing with him ideas on how to cheat their customers. Another says that the bridge creaks and may even collapse if someone lies while on it. And the latest I heard is that as a romantic place and a preferred one for couples in love, the bridge has heard many romantic but untrue words… But the most plausible theory is that its current name is due to a slight translation error from its original German name – Liegenbrücke (lying bridge/no pillars), very similar to Lügenbrücke (bridge of lies).
The houses with eyes
Different in shape and size, the skylights on the reddish roofs of the houses, strongly resembling eyes, have become a symbol of Sibiu! As much as they create the illusion of watchers, the most likely reason for the appearance of these openings is ventilation in the ceilings. The fact that they are mostly distributed in the area around Sibiu suggests that they must have been invented by a local craftsman. Enjoy them all around town! We encountered the most interesting and vivid examples around the lower town…
The Lower Town
If only for them, a walk through the streets of the lower town is worth it! I admit that all this with a lower and upper city seemed very strange to me beforehand… One city is down, the other up!? But that’s just the way it is… While the historical center flourished, the area formed around the fortress walls functioned primarily for production purposes. That’s why you won’t find any historical monuments there either, but it has a hidden rural charm and two small squares that have become my absolute favorites. The first is Piața Coroana, which was a stone’s throw from our apartment, and in the evening it turned into a wonderful place for a drink, and the second is the remaining hidden from tourists the goldsmiths’ square (Piața Aurarilor), which has retained its authentic appearance…
The stairs between the two cities
The stairs… ah, the stairs! Walks around Sibiu are marked by endless climbing between city levels… A very favorite activity of everyone who dares to visit it with a six-month-old baby in a stroller! Still, the stairwells turned out to be perhaps the most visually spectacular places in the city. You can’t remain indifferent to the view of the Tower of Stairs (Turnul Scarîrir) and the Evangelical Cathedral (Catedrala Evanghelică “Sfânta Maria”) – HERE! The Passage of Steps (Pasajul Scarilor) was built in the 13th century with double staircases and arches to connect the two parts of the city. Today, several pleasant establishments are located around it, creating a great atmosphere.
It’s worth going through two more such passages from the lower to the upper city! The first is the street under the Bridge of Lies (Strada Ocnei), surrounded by picturesque houses and leading to the heart of the small square, and the second leads there again and even for a long time was the main connection, because it is significantly older – from the 15th century. This is Pasajul Piața Aurarilor, which has the feeling of a portal of time and passing through it, it is as if you are going back millennia… It’s also a perfect background for attractive photos!
The oldest city square
Overshadowed by the other two, the oldest city square is Piața Huet, another must-see. On one side of it, colorful facades are neatly arranged, which, supported by the only German school in the city, manage to transport us to Germany. Opposite them are the fortress walls, sheltering stylish cafes with a view of the lower town. At the widest point stands the statue of the Saxon bishop Georg Daniel Teutsch, who moved the episcopal seat of Transylvania from Biertan to Sibiu. And then in the narrow passage around the tower of the steps is the House of the Journeymen (Casa Calfelor), with the wooden post in front, overflowing with driven nails and bearing an interesting legend, preserving the memory of the traveling artisans.
Sibiu Cathedral
And of course, the imposing Cathedral – Catedrala Evanghelică “Sfânta Maria” dominates everything in the square. It was built in the early 16th century on top of an old Roman basilica and can be visited for a small entrance fee. It has interesting vaulted ceilings, beautiful stained glass windows and the largest church organ in Romania. And about 200 steep steps lead to the top of the just under 74m high bell tower, so you can get the best view over the city! You can’t get any higher in Sibiu than this…
The main pedestrian street
The wide pedestrian street Nicolae Bălcescu is the main commercial area of Sibiu! It starts from Piața Unirii, where most tourists arrive, and is a kind of entrance to the old town to take them to the heart of the big square. It’s filled with various shops, cafes, bakeries, restaurants and what not. Soaking up its atmosphere, take a look at the buildings built in provincial baroque in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The Orthodox Cathedral and the house with the caryatids
Sibiu is home to the second largest Orthodox cathedral in Romania – Catedrala Ortodoxă “Sfânta Treime”. It’s a little out of the way from the main attractions, but definitely worth a stop. It was built in Byzantine style, and yellow and red bricks were used for the facade. The huge dome is surrounded by four towers, the two higher ones (about 45 m), in combination with several arches, form the impressive entrance. There is no entrance fee and you can freely enter and explore the gilded chandelier, colorful mosaics and intricate carvings.
Once here, don’t miss walking about 150 meters to one of the most interesting buildings in the city – the house with the caryatids (Casa cu Cariatide). It was built by the widow of a Transylvanian count at the end of the 18th century and is distinguished by its baroque style. Although it is not possible to enter inside, the two female statues serving as pillars by the entrance attract the eyes of passers-by.
The fortress wall and towers
During the Middle Ages, Sibiu had one of the most impressive fortification systems in Eastern Europe, including 39 defensive towers! Since the more serious raids to conquer the city came from the southeast, it had to be reinforced there often, which led to the preservation of this section in the best possible condition. Exiting the charming Strada Cetății, you will successively pass the Archbishop’s Tower (Turnul Archebuzierilor), the Potters’ Tower (Turnul Olarilor) and the Carpenters’ Tower (Turnul Dulgherilor), the last two being connected to each other by a well-preserved wooden tunnel along the wall.
In addition to a pleasant walk along perhaps the most colorful street in the city, go beyond the fortifications to cross the peaceful green park that occupies the space between the inner and outer fortress walls. You can’t help but notice the Fat Tower (Turnul Gros) from the 16th century, where the first theatrical performance in Sibiu took place, and today it is part of the local philharmonic.
The Secret Courts
If at some moments you decide that the crowds of people are getting too much for you, you can escape them by sneaking behind an open wooden gate… This is how you will discover the secret courtyards of Sibiu! These are the interior spaces of residential buildings, transformed into bars, gardens or hiding some relic, such as the statue of St. Ioan Nepomuk, placed in the courtyard of the Roman Catholic Church. If you’re lucky, they might reveal a whole new face to Sibiu!
Sibiu morning and evening
The other option to get the city to yourself is early morning walks! Walking through the almost deserted streets of Sibiu to feel the city waking up in front of your lens… a great experience! The familiar squares, but deserted, still untouched by tourists and locals… At times, they only watch the eyes from the rooftops.
Sibiu turned out to be an extremely romantic city, which is palpably felt in the evening. If you’re wondering if it’s worth spending the night, the answer is YES. Soaking up its nighttime atmosphere is among the top things to do here!
