Known since ancient times, Sirmione is one of the must-visit places around Lake Garda in Northern Italy! Its mild climate attracts an endless stream of tourists year-round, and at times it can be quite crowded… But even that can’t stop you from soaking up its medieval atmosphere, enjoying the views of the lake, and inhaling the fresh aroma of the coastal vegetation.
Where is located and how to get there
The old part of Sirmione is located at the end of Cape Sirmio – a narrow strip of land extending into the lake. In the immediate vicinity are Desenzano del Garda (9 km) and Peschiera del Garda (13 km), and Verona Airport is only 40 km away. Arriving by public transport is a convenient option, as there is a regular bus connection between the three cities already mentioned – LN26. If you decide to use the train, you will need to get off at the Desenzano train station (you can see schedules, prices and buy a ticket on Trainline) and then continue by bus or taxi.
See car rental options in Italy
The most convenient option for getting around remains the car! There are several large parking lots very close to the entrance to the old town, and on both of our visits (in 2016 and 2023) we used Parcheggio Monte Baldo. There are a few closer options, but they are often crowded and you will most likely have to go back to it again… The walk from the parking lot to the entrance to Sirmione is about 10 minutes along flower-filled alleys and overlooking the lake. By adding a refreshing drink made with freshly squeezed lemons, you won’t even realize you’ve arrived!
Sirmione can be a good choice for staying when visiting the area. There are plenty of spa hotels and boutique villas around it. Our goal was to be as close to Verona as possible, so we stayed in the quiet town of Lugagnano – Casa Dany.
See places to stay in Sirmione
First impression
Before you embark on an exploration of the old town, you can spend some time contemplating the colorful hotels around the fortress wall, laden with numerous flowers. On one side, boats circulate around the lake, and on the other, tourists cross the Ponte Levatoio pedestrian bridge, which in the past was a movable and essential part of a complex defense system.
More about Sirmione
Life on the hilly peninsula of Sirmione originated in the Bronze Age (2nd millennium BC). Remains of lake dwellings on stilts, which were common in the Alpine regions of Europe, have been found along the southern shore of the lake. During the Roman era, the favorable characteristics of the place made it a favorite of the wealthy families of the region. This is evidenced by the main landmark Grotte di Catullo and the praise of Sirmione in various Roman poems. And its location around the middle of the ancient Roman road between Brescia and Verona made it a preferred place for rest and refreshment as early as the 2nd and 3rd centuries.
During the Lombard period it was the capital of a large region, but falling under the rule of Charlemagne it became a small autonomous city. At the end of the 12th century, the Della Scala dynasty from Verona took over. They transformed the small existing castle into an impressive medieval fortress that we can still see today (Castello Scaligero)! After them came the Venetians and the Habsburgs, until its annexation to the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
The medieval Scaliger Castle (Castello Scaligero)
With its crenellated towers giving it an almost fairy-tale appearance, the Scaliger Castle has been the guardian of the city since the 13th century. The fortress built by the Skala family is completely surrounded by water and seems to rise directly from the lake! For an entrance fee, you can climb to the top of the tall towers and enjoy breathtaking panoramic views. Very impressive, and perhaps the most characteristic feature of the castle, is its fortified harbor!
First steps towards the city center
Sirmione is among the most pleasant towns on the shores of Lake Garda for walking! Its old town is structured around one main street – via Vittorio Emanuele. Along it, picturesque little squares, colorful houses, charming shops, and many aromatic temptations await you… Let’s start with the triangular square Piazza Castello, in the center of which you can find an ancient well. Go all the way to its narrow end to enjoy all the possible shades of blue presented to us by the waters of Garda!
Small streets and squares
Following the crowd of tourists, we head to the very heart of the city! Along the way, you will pass gelateria after gelateria, but I advise you to stop directly at Cremeria Bulian! They offer a huge variety of really delicious gelato (unlike many tourist places with tasteless product).
With ice cream in hand, we are now ready to continue through the small streets leading to more great squares and views of Garda! The central piazza is Piazza Giosuè Carducci, where the restaurants have direct views of the lake. The pier in the water is crowded with people waiting for the next boat arriving from one of the lake directions.
Every turn to the left from the main street leads to a gap with a view of the lake, and our favorite was the one on via Romagnoli. At its end, between two restaurants, swans and ducklings enjoyed the human attention! Especially for the youngest visitors to Sirmione…
Two more squares (Piazza Flaminia and Piazza Porto Valentino) are charming spaces near the coast and relatively popular, while Piazza dei Catari remains more hidden and mysteriously peaceful.
Colorful corners
The historic center is full of interesting shops and photogenic corners! Morelli Giulio’s colorful ceramic items definitely catch the eye… And the purple house (as I named it on my first visit – HERE) is the most popular place for photography. Many more stone buildings and charming tunnels accompany your entire walk through Sirmione! A few meters away from the main streets, you can glimpse the colorful oasis of Giardino Grazia Deledda. This private courtyard is dedicated to the Italian writer Grazia Deledda (Nobel laureate for literature) and access to it is limited, but it makes for an ideal backdrop for photos!
Lake beaches
Several beaches can also be found in Sirmione! The most popular is Jamaica Beach, positioned at the tip of the peninsula and recognizable by its bizarre white cliffs. We didn’t get to it, but we took a look at the ones on the east coast – Spiaggia Lido delle Bionde, Spiaggia del prete and my favorite little beach by the fortress, Spiaggia pubblica. A perfect place for kids to dip their feet in the water and chase ducks!
Thermal spa destination
We didn’t get a chance to try the thermal services in Sirmione, but they are world famous! Only about 200 meters from its eastern shore is the Boiola hot spring, whose mineral waters were successfully channeled to the city in the 19th century. This leads to the emergence of modern SPA centers and the active use of healing water with a high sulfur content.
Parks and greenery
The small peninsula on the southern shore of Lake Garda is a true green oasis! Reaching almost its end, you will find spacious parks with huge conifers, cypresses, olive groves and numerous blooming zocums. It feels like we’re in the Mediterranean, but we’re not really…
Somewhere inland is the villa of opera legend Maria Callas, who is perhaps the most famous former resident of Sirmione. For this reason, the beautiful park, right across from her former home – Parco Maria Callas – also bears her name. You can sit on one of the benches in it and imagine what her fellow citizens heard when she rehearsed her arias for a performance at Milan’s La Scala, and her sonorous voice carried among the treetops throughout the park…
The main archaeological site
After a short walk through green alleys and narrow paths, most often leading to luxurious private villas, you will find yourself at the most significant archaeological landmark in Sirmione – the Caves of Catullus (Grotte di Catullo)! Actually, these are not caves, but ruins of a Roman villa… And it did not belong to the ancient Roman poet Catullus, who lived in the 1st century BC, because it dates from the 1st century AD – a slight time discrepancy.
Although not much remains of the complex’s buildings themselves, its area of nearly two hectares testifies to the wealth of its former owners – most likely the noble Valeria family of Verona (Gens Valeria)! The harmony between ancient ruins and nature is present, and almost every corner offers wonderful views of the lake’s waters.
For a final
Sirmione has enough sights to keep its visitors busy for a whole day! And yet there will be time for slow walks, to get lost in narrow streets with stone houses, to eat ice cream around the shores of Lake Garda and calmly enjoy the great views…
