My first encounter with Verona was back in 2006 – I was a 16-year-old kid, part of yet another noisy tourist group that the bus simply “dumped” in the heart of the city. Nearly two decades later, I returned to find that Verona has not only remained the same, but has become even more charming! This time, however, we refused to chase the “must-see” landmarks… We treated ourselves to Verona in small sips – a slow morning coffee with a pastry, a quick pizza by the river, a leisurely cocktail with a view, and that magical afternoon moment when the organized groups leave, the squares grow quiet, and the city finally takes off its mask to reveal its true, magnetic face.
Where is located and how to get there
Located in the western part of the Veneto region, very close to the border with Lombardy, Verona serves as a natural crossroads for the main roads in Northern Italy. Its proximity to Lake Garda (Peschiera del Garda, Sirmione, Desenzano del Garda) and the almost equal distance to Milan and Venice make it the perfect starting point for exploring this part of the country.
The city is extremely accessible, regardless of how you choose to travel. The “Valerio Catullo” International Airport, serving the region, is directly connected to the main railway station via a fast and regular bus line (Airlink). For those who prefer rail transport, Verona Porta Nuova station is a key railway hub for all of Northern Italy. But keep in mind that it is slightly far from the center – about a 20-minute walk.
See car rental options in Italy
If you are traveling by car and do not have a parking space provided by your accommodation, parking in Verona can be a challenge, but it is not impossible. Initially, I had marked Viale Colonnello Galliano, 12 Parking – a free parking option, which always sounds tempting. In the end, however, I played it safe and chose Parcheggio Tribunale (near the Court). This parking lot is extremely convenient, spacious, and secure, and its location is just two blocks away from the large underground parking lots of the Arena. Let’s also add that it is cheaper than them.
Where to stay
Regarding accommodation, we chose the peace and quiet away from the city noise. We stayed in the small village of Lugagnano at the guest house Casa Dany Affittacamere – a place with an excellent price-to-quality ratio. We booked a double room with a private bathroom; the house has two more rooms for rent, and they all share a common kitchen, a small living room, and a veranda. In the chaos of moving luggage, dealing with a nearly asleep child, and a travel cot on the first night, we missed taking photos, but everything is exactly as you see it on Booking.
See more places to stay in Verona
A leisurely morning in Verona
For Verona, we had promised ourselves one thing – this day would be dedicated to slow pleasures, with no “must-do” checklists and no unnecessary rushing. We left the car and headed toward the heart of the city to soak up its morning energy.
Our path took us through the Giardini Vittorio Emanuele II, right in front of the majestic Arena di Verona. The first buses of the day were already “docking” there, unloading eager groups of tourists. We quickly turned our gaze the other way, toward I Portoni della Bra – the impressive arches that once served as the main entrance to the historical center.
Not being particularly keen on diving into the crowds swarming the area around the Arena, we made our way to Pasticceria Caffè Wallner. Although the pastry shop’s interior is interesting and inviting, we preferred the sunny tables outside. The selection at Wallner’s display case is impressive – from classic croissants to traditional Veronese desserts and savory treats. Thus, our leisurely morning took on the flavor of a Pasticciotto Leccese (which we first tried in its original setting – Lecce) and the aroma of a perfect cappuccino!
Castelvecchio, the Scaligero Bridge and the Roman arch
We still weren’t ready to mingle with the crowds in the center, so we continued along Via Roma toward the Adige River. Our path led us straight to the imposing red walls of Castelvecchio – the “Old Castle,” which still stands today as a steadfast guardian of the past. It was built in the 14th century by the most prominent local family, the Scaligeri, who ruled the city for over 100 years.
In the 20th century, the fortress was converted into a museum, housing Verona’s primary art collection. We didn’t go inside, but its courtyard is fully accessible, and you can freely walk through it to feel the scale of the medieval architecture. As an extension of the defensive structure, the namesake bridge over the river was also built – Ponte di Castelvecchio. Although it was blown up by the Nazis in 1945, today it is completely restored to its original appearance. With its iconic jagged brick parapets, the bridge offers one of the most impressive walks over the river (it is free).
Right next to the castle, in a small park, lies the Arco dei Gavi. This exquisite 1st-century Roman structure was built in honor of the local Gavi family and has survived through the centuries to uniquely complement the contrast between antiquity and the Middle Ages. The view from the alley toward the bridge and the river is simply spectacular – the perfect place to pause for a moment before continuing toward the heart of Verona.
Back to Piazza Bra and Arena di Verona
After the tranquility by the river, we returned to the pulse of the city – the impressive Piazza Bra. Here, Verona reveals one of its most iconic landscapes – on one side, the colorful facades of cafes and restaurants, and on the other – the spectacular arches and curves of the Arena!
Built in the 1st century, Arena di Verona is the third-largest amphitheater in the Roman Empire. In its heyday, it held nearly 30 000 people – about the same as the city’s population at the time. This is one of the largest and best-preserved amphitheatrical structures in Europe! And while many similar structures have become silent monuments, the Arena in Verona is still very much alive. Two millennia later, it continues to fulfill its original purpose, annually hosting opera performances, festivals, and concerts that delight audiences under the open sky.
Since I had already been inside during my first visit to Verona, and the female half of the family was busy searching for a new child’s hat (the old one was left somewhere on the streets of Sirmione the previous day), my look of satisfaction toward the winding queue at the entrance was completely justified… However, if you are here for the first time, it is absolutely worth going inside! Climbing to the top rows is a must – not only to feel the scale of this majestic Roman creation but also to enjoy one of the best views of Verona’s rooftops (I’m uploading a few photos from the “deep archive” of the point-and-shoot camera I had back then).
💡In the afternoon, the area around the Arena is not as busy, so you can calmly admire the view or take the perfect photos against the city’s most iconic backdrop. If you make it to the end of the article, I’ll give you a few ideas on exactly where to take photos / be photographed 😉
The elegant via Mazzini and a few of its side streets
We head down the most popular shopping street, Via Mazzini, which before noon is literally an unending river of tourists wandering between glossy boutiques, galleries, and global brand stores. All of these, combined with the polished marble floor, give it an exceptionally elegant and modern look.
In several places, however, I took the opportunity to veer slightly off to the side to find a more photogenic spot, far from the shop windows… One such place is the corner with Vicolo Scudo di Francia. There, one of those perfect Italian views unfolds – a deep orange building with green wooden shutters, and above it, the brick bell tower of the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Scala rises proudly. Che bella vista, as the Italians would exclaim!
While the new hat was being chosen, I also hopped over quickly to another impressive imprint of the Roman era – Porta dei Borsari. This majestic 1st-century facade was once among the main entrances to the city in antiquity, located on the ancient road Via Postumia. Today, it stands as a portal between eras – its white limestone structure with fine decorative elements contrasts remarkably with the surrounding buildings. Most impressive is looking through its arches, which frame the long street leading into the old city, at the end of which the silhouettes of medieval towers can be seen…
Piazza delle Erbe – the square with a thousand faces
Suddenly, the glossy shop windows of Via Mazzini flow into that genuine, noisy energy of Piazza delle Erbe, which I remember from my very first visit. The morning craze is still the same – the colorful stalls, the hum of the crowd and even the freshly cut fruit salads, which look just as appetizing today behind their glass displays… Surrounded by architectural treasures, this piazza is not just the “Square of Herbs“, as its name literally translates due to a centuries-old market tradition that continues to this day, but the beating heart of Verona!
We had planned to come back in the afternoon, but we decided to spend some time here now as well, mostly to have a basis for comparison between the two faces of the square. If you stay in the city for the whole day, you will undoubtedly cross it at least a few times, and it won’t be a surprise if each time you notice something new that you had previously missed.
💡During the Roman Empire, the forum stretched across this area. In some establishments around the square, you can even go down to the basements, where remains of the ancient structures are visible.
The main landmarks of Piazza delle Erbe
Right at the beginning, you will notice the ancient column (Colonna Antica), a reminder of the Roman imprints across Verona. In the 14th century, a small shrine (aedicula) with images of the Virgin Mary and several saints was added to it. Another interesting monument among the stalls is Il Capitello (also known as the Berlina) – a four-columned structure with a pyramidal roof dating back to the 14th century. One of its primary purposes was as a podium where market units of measurement were marked, but during the Middle Ages, important decrees were also announced here. Its final role, most intriguing to tourists, was as a “pillory” for the public humiliation of wrongdoers.
Here, in the center of the square, one wonders which way to turn first. On one side is the Gothic building of the former headquarters of the merchant guilds (Domus Mercatorum) and on the other – the medieval arch from which a huge whale bone hangs (Arco della Costa). According to some sources, it might even be an ichthyosaur fossil… It won’t take you long to realize that the sound of flowing water comes from the “Madonna Verona” fountain (Fontana di Madonna Verona), assembled at the end of the 14th century from various elements (including those from a Roman thermal bath).
We must also mention the 84-meter tower soaring over the square – Torre dei Lamberti. We didn’t climb to the top, but if you decide to do so, pay attention to the two bells at its peak. The larger one is Rengo, used as a call for defense, and the smaller one is Marangona – it rang during fires. At the northern end of the square, there is another tower, though significantly smaller – Torre del Gardello. It stands next to the exquisite Baroque palace Palazzo Maffei, and as a reminder of the city’s Venetian past, a stone column with the statue of Saint Mark (Colonna di San Marco) rises before them.
Romeo and Juliet – a love story
Romeo and Juliet – the eternal story of love and… the unending flow of tourists toward a single balcony! Verona skillfully uses Shakespeare’s work to maintain its image as the “city of love” and to turn ordinary spots into real tourist magnets. The most vivid example of this is Casa di Giulietta, located just a step away from the bustling Piazza delle Erbe.
During my first visit years ago, this place had a completely different feel – the flow of people was significantly smaller and the house was easy to explore. Back then, the entrance tunnel was still a “living” gallery of thousands of love messages, notes, and names written directly on the plaster or stuck with chewing gum. This sight has disappeared today due to strict measures to protect the facade, and to reach the inner courtyard, you have to fight your way through a dense crowd armed with phones, waiting for a photo of the famous balcony. In reality, the house is nothing more than a former residence of a local family, acquired by the municipality and cleverly turned into an attraction, while the balcony itself was only added in the 1930s.
Although the atmosphere of intimacy has long since given way to mass tourism, if it’s your first time in Verona, you might try to reach the bronze statue of Juliet, whose right breast is literally worn smooth by those wishing to find luck in love!
💡The story of Romeo and Juliet actually sparked a real war between two Italian cities. Vicenza accuses Verona of “stealing” the characters, claiming that the ill-fated lovers from the work of local writer Luigi da Porto were the original inspiration for Shakespeare’s personas. I will tell you all about this intrigue, however, in the article about Vicenza!
Via Cappello and its little surprises
We continue along Via Cappello – one of Verona’s most important and beautiful pedestrian arteries. The street is a true delight for the eyes with its elegant passages, boutique shops, and cozy restaurants with small outdoor tables. The atmosphere here is a bit more relaxed than in the square itself, yet history continues to lurk around every corner.
The most impressive evidence of this is the remains of Porta Leoni. The sight of this partially preserved Roman gate, built directly into one of the medieval buildings, is spectacular. It was part of the city’s defensive wall, and today it literally allows us to peek behind the modern facades to see the foundations of 1st-century ancient Verona.
I won’t lie to you – as Harry Potter fans, our main goal on this street was the Albus Store (Al Buso Rock Store). From the shop window alone, the store plunges you into the world of “the boy who lived,” and even though we’ve visited the Студиото на Хари Потър в Лондон, the decoration inside is phenomenal! The interior combines many elements and details that immediately transported us into our favorite magical world…
Lunchtime – the best pizza in Italy
Whenever I crave a delicious pizza, a specific memory of Verona still surfaces first in my mind… After our morning walk, we intentionally ended up near the river and the Ponte delle Navi bridge to be as close as possible to a spot for a quick lunch – Wallet Pizza.
It’s an extremely small space, literally described as a “hole in the wall,” where the oven itself barely fits. But don’t be fooled by its size – the pizzas here are incredible. We got a classic Margherita, which in 2023 cost 5 euro (a check in 2026 shows the price is still the same!).
Since there is no seating inside, we positioned ourselves in the shade by the railing near the bridge. There, accompanied by the rushing waters of the Adige and a beautiful view of the opposite bank, we enjoyed perhaps the best pizza I’ve ever eaten in Italy!
Leisurely around the Adige river
After grabbing a bite, we continue our walk along the river. On the way, we stop at the particularly charming little square Piazzetta Pescheria. Not because there’s anything so remarkable about it, but because of the large supermarket we’ve been looking for since morning. The reason – we forgot the diapers in the car, but we managed to save the day without me having to go back to the parking lot (if you didn’t know, one of the primary duties of a traveling father is to return to the car hundreds of times).
Equipped with everything we needed and now calmly admiring the silhouette of Castel San Pietro on the opposite bank, we soon reach the shaded terrace of Piazza Bra Molinari. This is the spot that, in my opinion, offers the best view of the castle, the Roman amphitheater, and the terraced part of Verona across the river. The view is so captivating that we decide to take another break at Coppa Cafe. This is what I was talking about at the beginning… these small moments of timelessness, with a cocktail in hand and a fairytale view, made our stay in Verona unforgettable!
Toward the churches and the grandeur of the Scaligeri
We have to stray a little off the main tourist paths to discover the rosy facade of the Duomo di Verona. Verona Cathedral, whose construction in the oldest part of the city began in the early 12th century, is more of an entire complex of religious buildings! We went inside to see the interior of the main temple, but if you have more time, you can also peek into the baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte – there you will find a huge 12th-century baptismal font, carved from a single block of marble and decorated with eight scenes from the Gospel.
We passed through Piazza Santa Anastasia to catch a glimpse of the namesake church (Basilica di Sant’ Anastasia) – the largest in Verona! If you decide to go inside, pay attention to the two hunchbacked figures (“I Gobbi”) supporting the holy water fonts right by the entrance. You will recognize them by their strained facial expressions, suggesting the weight of the marble above them… And according to local lore, touching their backs brings good luck!
When talking about the history of Verona, one cannot help but mention the noble Scaligeri family (whom I mentioned at the beginning of the article). Their rule was iconic, and you can get a sense of their grandeur from the impressive Gothic tombs – the Arche Scaligere. The sarcophagi are lavishly decorated, with the most striking being that of Cangrande I. At its top sits his statue, depicting him mounted on his horse with a spear in hand. I can only guess, but they likely wanted to demonstrate their power even after death, elevating their eternal homes high above the heads of passersby… Don’t miss the chance to enter their small family chapel, built in Romanesque style – the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antica.
Wandering through the hidden corners of Verona and afternoon coffee
Another inevitable part of this city’s charm reveals itself as you get lost in the narrow, medieval streets in its heart! Since there is a Juliet’s House, there must also be a Romeo’s House – Casa di Romeo. Resembling a small castle, it was the home of the Montecchi family until the beginning of the 14th century.
Keep an eye out for small details so you don’t miss a creation like Gatto con il cuore infranto. The Cat with the Broken Heart is a charming piece of mosaic art, tucked away down on the corner between Vicolo Santa Cecilia and Corso Sant’Anastasia.
Another iconic street for a stroll is Corso Porta Borsari. The modern boutiques along it blend perfectly into the preserved medieval spirit. There is no shortage of interesting shops where you can pick up authentic local products. Drawn by the aroma of freshly baked pastries, we stepped into Pasticceria De Rossi and then found it hard to leave…
However, we didn’t buy any baked goods because we already had a plan for them – Pasticceria Flego. This historic pastry shop has several locations across Verona. The first, which opened its doors back in 1972, is located on Corso Porta Borsari, but we headed to the one on Via Stella because it has pleasant outdoor tables. The assortment in their display cases is heavily influenced by French style, featuring a mix of traditional flavors and avant-garde contemporary confectionery. Besides the perfect croissant with fig jam and the aromatic cappuccino, I was personally won over by the story of Marco and Matteo, the two Flego brothers currently behind the bakery’s success. Driven by family values, they left their careers in marketing and advertising to continue the business after their father’s death…
The aristocratic heart of Verona – Piazza dei Signori
And now I will lead you to the aristocratic heart of Verona – Piazza dei Signori. A wonderful square for rest and enjoyment, whose exquisite buildings radiate impressive dignity. We sat for a while in the shade under the arches of the Loggia del Consiglio, while our child ran carefree across the square, watched over by the stern expression and “vigilant” gaze of the statue of Dante Alighieri rising in the center. The cafe tables scattered around the square complement the overall leisurely mood, and in our minds, this remained one of the most pleasant places in Verona!
If you’re wondering why there is a statue of the famous Florentine here, it’s because after being exiled from Florence, Dante settled right here in Verona in 1301. He even dedicated the third part of the “Divine Comedy” (“Paradiso”) to his patron, the prominent local ruler of the Scaligeri family mentioned earlier – Cangrande della Scala.
The palaces around us, built across different eras and in diverse architectural styles, tell the story of power in medieval and Venetian Verona! The former seat of local rulers, Palazzo del Podestà, closely resembles an impregnable castle and is complemented by the Palazzo del Capitanio on the opposite corner – commissioned in the 14th century by Cansignorio della Scala (who went down in history as the most ferocious of the Scaligeri family because he murdered his brother).
Undoubtedly, the central role is reserved for the Palazzo della Ragione, built in the 12th century, which initially housed the city hall and later became the courthouse. Do not hesitate to pass through its vaulted entrance to find yourself in the inner courtyard, before the Gothic staircase, Scala della Ragione, crafted from beautiful red marble. This is the spot where you can ascend to the Torre dei Lamberti.
Verona breathes easier in the afternoon
As you can see from the photos, Verona’s squares feel significantly relieved in the afternoon and the absence of tourist crowds is palpable! That’s why we returned once more to Piazza delle Erbe – to enjoy it as it deserves. We browsed the variety of trinkets at the stalls and wandered around the fountain, glancing at the colorful facades. We observed everything happening around us, especially the locals starting to come out for their passeggiata… Sometimes the best way to get to know a city is exactly this – to simply let it be before your eyes!
Verona from above – the panorama from Castel San Pietro
As if we hadn’t had enough treats that day, we saved the most impressive view of the city for the finale! The path there crosses one of the ancient city bridges, a blend of antiquity and the Middle Ages – Ponte Pietra. After a brief moment of admiring the landscapes around the cool river waters, the difficult part follows – the ascent to the hill of Castel San Pietro. The stairs to the top aren’t particularly daunting, but with a small child and a stroller, we decided to save our energy and use the funicular – Funicolare di Castel San Pietro (the price is 3 euro for a round-trip ticket). Not only was it quick and easy, but it was also quite interesting for our little traveler.
And oh… what a view unfolds before us! Up there, from the castle terrace, Verona lies at our feet, gently embraced by the bends of the Adige River. Founded in the 4th century BC, later becoming part of the Roman Empire, and even an independent republic, it continues to captivate thousands of hearts today through a perfect symbiosis of ancient history, Renaissance elegance and genuine Italian dolce far niente… This is the best place to catch the last rays of the sun for the day and it is simply unthinkable to leave without visiting it!
For a final – a few spots for the perfect photo
Our day in Verona was so full of emotions and sights that time flew by unnoticed. It felt as if everything began with the Arena and ended with it once more. We decided not to stay for dinner in the city, instead, we picked up some delicious focaccia from Focacceria La Figaccia, which we ate on our terrace at the house after our little hero fell asleep. We crossed paths with the other tenants, two welcoming families from Sicily who filled the kitchen with the pleasant aromas of freshly prepared pasta. They shared that they simply don’t like the food in Northern Italy. And having been to Sicily ourselves, we completely understand what they mean!
Before putting a period on this article, I promised you something at the beginning if you made it to the end! Here are a few suggestions for spots where you can capture the Arena in all its glory, especially in the afternoon hours when it is almost deserted:
➡️ From Via Tre Marchetti, right next to the trattoria of the same name – HERE
➡️ Behind the tables of Le Cantine de l’Arena – HERE
➡️ The preserved section of the outer wall, standing out from the rest – HERE
